We ended the trip with a bang of sorts.. decided to go for a hike in Holyrood Park, which is more of a set of mountains than a park. And I mean serious mountains - rocky crags and grassy valleys. The hike was extremely strenuous but rewarding - we stumbled upon beautiful views of Edinburgh and St. Andrew's Chapel in ruin.
Afterwards, we walked down to Grassmarket for our final meal. Ironically, we ended up eating at a pub called The Last Drop - a play on the Scots' two favorite passtimes: drinking whiskey and hanging people. The Drop is directly across from the site of the old gallows. Lovely.
After a walk down the hill for a fried Mars bar we decided to call it a night. A long but uneventful trip home today, and I have two happy and healthy kitties climbing all over me.
Photos to come...
Saturday, September 26, 2009
Friday, September 25, 2009
Scottish Music in Edinburgh
Not so good.
We had another Beheading Stone moment trying to find the Antiquary pub where I heard from my new friends in Stirling a session was on Thursday night. Trying to follow a map of roads that originated as cow paths in the dark and with inconsistent sinage was something else! We had a blast traipsing to the other side of town but had a hell of a time trying to find the pub.
An attempt at going around the block (like I said, cow paths) put us about a half-mile out of our way, which we realized a little later when we came again into the shadow of a huge clock-tower that had been marking our way thus far.
We finally found the pub and realized to our chagrin that we had walked down that exact street about 20 minutes ago and just didn't see it.
The Antiquary is a real gem of a pub, dark and warm and cozy, but the music was terrible. More of a "jam session" and heavily song-focused (though they started with I'll Fly Away, randomly) there was absolutely no energy or vibe.
So after two beers and a wee dram we had the munchies and headed back to our hotel with the intent of finding a curry house along the way. And, though we had passed several on our trek to the pub, we couldn't find any on the way back. Desperate, the Golden Arches summoned. Against our will we surrendered to the pull until Saigon Saigon came into view and we ducked in for pork curry, sweet and sour chicken, and a spring roll.
A late start to our final day. I slept in for the first time in two weeks and we're just catching up on the news before checking in for our flight and embarking on our last day in the United Kingdom.
We had another Beheading Stone moment trying to find the Antiquary pub where I heard from my new friends in Stirling a session was on Thursday night. Trying to follow a map of roads that originated as cow paths in the dark and with inconsistent sinage was something else! We had a blast traipsing to the other side of town but had a hell of a time trying to find the pub.
An attempt at going around the block (like I said, cow paths) put us about a half-mile out of our way, which we realized a little later when we came again into the shadow of a huge clock-tower that had been marking our way thus far.
We finally found the pub and realized to our chagrin that we had walked down that exact street about 20 minutes ago and just didn't see it.
The Antiquary is a real gem of a pub, dark and warm and cozy, but the music was terrible. More of a "jam session" and heavily song-focused (though they started with I'll Fly Away, randomly) there was absolutely no energy or vibe.
So after two beers and a wee dram we had the munchies and headed back to our hotel with the intent of finding a curry house along the way. And, though we had passed several on our trek to the pub, we couldn't find any on the way back. Desperate, the Golden Arches summoned. Against our will we surrendered to the pull until Saigon Saigon came into view and we ducked in for pork curry, sweet and sour chicken, and a spring roll.
A late start to our final day. I slept in for the first time in two weeks and we're just catching up on the news before checking in for our flight and embarking on our last day in the United Kingdom.
Thursday, September 24, 2009
In Edinburgh
We are in Edinburgh for the last leg of the trip. The drive from Stirling and return of the rental car was uneventful, and we have a great location here, half block off the Royal Mile, halfway between the Castle and the Palace.
Oh - we found the beheading stone!! We made a point to find in on google earth and then stop there this morning on our way out of town. Like everything else in Stirling, finding the stone involved a long, steep, strenuous hike generally straight UP to the top of a huge hill. But it was worth it!
We started with a stroll up the Royal Mile toward the castle, stopping in some shops along the way. Edinburgh Castle is HUGE... we spent more than an hour wandering the various towers and buildings. On the way back, we decided to try a scotch whisky tasting. We splurged on the "gold" version which gave us not only the complimentary tasting that everyone gets but a tasting of four additional whiskys (from each region in Scotland that produces whisky - the Lowlands, Highlands, Speyside, and Islay) at the end. It was great! The tour started with an in-depth look at how scotch whisky is made, followed by a tasting in the vault, where the largest collection of scotch whisky in the world is held - over 3,000 bottles - and then our final tasting in the bar. The Lowlands and Highlands were my favorites. I didn't care at all for the Speyside and Islay malts.
I am in desperate need of a burger and deep-fried Mars bar so... off we go to spend the rest of the day in town. Tomorrow we'll try to go on a self-guided walking tour, visit the writer's museum, pub-crawl, wander, and get ready for the journey home.
Oh - we found the beheading stone!! We made a point to find in on google earth and then stop there this morning on our way out of town. Like everything else in Stirling, finding the stone involved a long, steep, strenuous hike generally straight UP to the top of a huge hill. But it was worth it!
We started with a stroll up the Royal Mile toward the castle, stopping in some shops along the way. Edinburgh Castle is HUGE... we spent more than an hour wandering the various towers and buildings. On the way back, we decided to try a scotch whisky tasting. We splurged on the "gold" version which gave us not only the complimentary tasting that everyone gets but a tasting of four additional whiskys (from each region in Scotland that produces whisky - the Lowlands, Highlands, Speyside, and Islay) at the end. It was great! The tour started with an in-depth look at how scotch whisky is made, followed by a tasting in the vault, where the largest collection of scotch whisky in the world is held - over 3,000 bottles - and then our final tasting in the bar. The Lowlands and Highlands were my favorites. I didn't care at all for the Speyside and Islay malts.
I am in desperate need of a burger and deep-fried Mars bar so... off we go to spend the rest of the day in town. Tomorrow we'll try to go on a self-guided walking tour, visit the writer's museum, pub-crawl, wander, and get ready for the journey home.
Scottish Music in Stirling
So at lunch at the No. 2 Baker St pub in Stirling we found out they were having traditional Scottish music that night. We went back to catch a tune, and along with some bluegrass banjos one guy was playing a tenor banjo. At the break, I went up to see who made it, and he let me try it. A minute or two into the first set of the second half, they invited me up for a tune! It was way cool. So I played a plugged-in banjo in Stirling, Scotland.
Wednesday, September 23, 2009
Day Four on the Road - Scotland
Scotland is windy and rain falls from blue skies. The mountains are bare and gorgeous and there are sheep everywhere. From the coastline of Wales we drove through the Cambrian Mountains and then through the Southern Uplands as a nice contrast to the ocean.
Once north of Manchester and Liverpool, it was smooth sailing to Hadrian's Wall, a huge, 83-foot stone wall built by Emperor Hadrian to mark the boundary between England and Scotland. We stopped at Birdoswald Fort and wandered around the ruins, including a cemetary currently being excavated by archaelogists, the idea being that the excavation beats the cemetary falling into the valley below, as it slides further and further down each year.
From there we crossed the border into Scotland and went straight for Stirling Castle, a huge fortress way on top of a mountain in Stirling. When we arrived there were loads of tour buses in the parking lot - daytrips from Edinburgh and Glasgow - but hoards of people were exiting the grounds as we were entering and we had the place relatively to ourselves to wander around the amazing grounds.
After taking in our fill of kitchens, great halls, gardens, chapels, courtyars, and the most incredible views over the Scottish lowlands below, we went in search of a B&B. We have had the best luck - thanks in part to my trusty Lonely Planet guide (I NEVER travel without one) and found a darling little place in the city centre.
When the innkeeper was explaining how to get to the coffee shop where I'm sitting (for free Wifi), she kept describing the "wee chairs" out front. I love it!
Starving, we stopped for a beer and a bite then went off to hike around the city walls - again - through the cemetaries, around the castle, and in search of the Beheading Stone - the place where the beheadings happened, naturally, and is now barred off to prevent anyone from re-enacting the scene...
... well, a long and valiant effort ensued, and we just couldn't find the spot! The maps weren't clear, we couldn't find any landmarks, and a later check of Google Earth confirmed that we were nowhere near the correct spot. Oh well. We'll try to swing by in the morning on our way out of town to Edinburgh, where we'll return the car and spend our remaining day and a half exploring the vibrant capitol of Scotland.
Once north of Manchester and Liverpool, it was smooth sailing to Hadrian's Wall, a huge, 83-foot stone wall built by Emperor Hadrian to mark the boundary between England and Scotland. We stopped at Birdoswald Fort and wandered around the ruins, including a cemetary currently being excavated by archaelogists, the idea being that the excavation beats the cemetary falling into the valley below, as it slides further and further down each year.
From there we crossed the border into Scotland and went straight for Stirling Castle, a huge fortress way on top of a mountain in Stirling. When we arrived there were loads of tour buses in the parking lot - daytrips from Edinburgh and Glasgow - but hoards of people were exiting the grounds as we were entering and we had the place relatively to ourselves to wander around the amazing grounds.
After taking in our fill of kitchens, great halls, gardens, chapels, courtyars, and the most incredible views over the Scottish lowlands below, we went in search of a B&B. We have had the best luck - thanks in part to my trusty Lonely Planet guide (I NEVER travel without one) and found a darling little place in the city centre.
When the innkeeper was explaining how to get to the coffee shop where I'm sitting (for free Wifi), she kept describing the "wee chairs" out front. I love it!
Starving, we stopped for a beer and a bite then went off to hike around the city walls - again - through the cemetaries, around the castle, and in search of the Beheading Stone - the place where the beheadings happened, naturally, and is now barred off to prevent anyone from re-enacting the scene...
... well, a long and valiant effort ensued, and we just couldn't find the spot! The maps weren't clear, we couldn't find any landmarks, and a later check of Google Earth confirmed that we were nowhere near the correct spot. Oh well. We'll try to swing by in the morning on our way out of town to Edinburgh, where we'll return the car and spend our remaining day and a half exploring the vibrant capitol of Scotland.
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
Third Day on the Road - Back in England
After a long tour in Wales we are back in England - barely, settling in the town of Chester for the night, just over the border. I had wanted to make it north of Liverpool and Manchester but we are just south of those cities and that's fine - Chester is an old Roman fort city with walls circling the town centre. You can walk along the top of the walls the entire way, about two miles, past a castle, a cathedral, the channel, the river, different neighborhoods. It's really quite cool! There's also a Roman amphitheater in ruin and a great pedestrian shopping area. Not a bad place to hole up for the night.
After leaving Cardigan we drove through a foggy, misty Welsh morning along the rocking, foamy coast. Beautiful coastline indeed! After some deliberation and a few changes of minds, we pointed the GPS toward Harlech Castle on the northwest coast, a large seaside fortress. We spent a while wandering around the grounds in the whipping wind, got a sandwich and a steaky and kidney pie for lunch, respectively, and hit the road for Chester.
After walking the walls we had a pint in an old pub which used to be the tollgate into the city, then went in search of a room. We've had great luck with kind innkeepers and clean, ensuite rooms for good prices.
Tomorrow we will drive to Hadrian's Wall on the England/Scotland border and find a little Scottish town to stay in night. Thursday morning we arrive in Edinburgh, where we'll stay until we fly out on Saturday morning.
After leaving Cardigan we drove through a foggy, misty Welsh morning along the rocking, foamy coast. Beautiful coastline indeed! After some deliberation and a few changes of minds, we pointed the GPS toward Harlech Castle on the northwest coast, a large seaside fortress. We spent a while wandering around the grounds in the whipping wind, got a sandwich and a steaky and kidney pie for lunch, respectively, and hit the road for Chester.
After walking the walls we had a pint in an old pub which used to be the tollgate into the city, then went in search of a room. We've had great luck with kind innkeepers and clean, ensuite rooms for good prices.
Tomorrow we will drive to Hadrian's Wall on the England/Scotland border and find a little Scottish town to stay in night. Thursday morning we arrive in Edinburgh, where we'll stay until we fly out on Saturday morning.
Monday, September 21, 2009
Second Day on the Road - from Wells to Wales
This morning we left our B&B and drove through Bristol and over the Severn River into Wales. We immediately headed for a large and imposing castle at Carreg Cerren - a huge fortress set high up on a hill. And high it was - the climb was grueling but rewarding! We wandered around the towers and rooms and down into a cave before getting back in our car and pointing south to Pembroke.
We wanted to see Pembroke Castle and possibly wander around in Pembrokeshire National Park, but time got away from us and after touring the second castle (more of a residence than a fortress but boasting a lovely climb up 100 spiral steps to the top of the highest keep, panoramic views of the Welsh countryside!) we decided to head to a closeby town and hole up for the night.
We had encountered a Welsh traffic jam earlier in the day, which didn't feel much different than an American traffic jam, and I think that added to our sense that we'd had enough driving time today!
We're in Cardigan right now, on the western Welsh coast, and tomorrow will head north through Wales and back into England briefly, then north to Scotland. Towns and activities TBD.
We wanted to see Pembroke Castle and possibly wander around in Pembrokeshire National Park, but time got away from us and after touring the second castle (more of a residence than a fortress but boasting a lovely climb up 100 spiral steps to the top of the highest keep, panoramic views of the Welsh countryside!) we decided to head to a closeby town and hole up for the night.
We had encountered a Welsh traffic jam earlier in the day, which didn't feel much different than an American traffic jam, and I think that added to our sense that we'd had enough driving time today!
We're in Cardigan right now, on the western Welsh coast, and tomorrow will head north through Wales and back into England briefly, then north to Scotland. Towns and activities TBD.
Sunday, September 20, 2009
First Day On the Road
A full and exciting first day out of London! We picked up our car from Gatwick airport and pointed the GPS toward Stonehenge. What a magnificent site! I honestly didn't think Stonehenge would be that interesting, seeing as how it's right next to the freeway and loaded with tourists - but it was very interesting and beautiful and I'm glad we stopped there.
We both really wanted to see the Roman ruins at Bath but my guidebook said that traffic in Bath was awful and it had an "infuriating" one-way road system. The guidebook suggested a nearby Park & Ride service but we weren't sure we'd be able to find it. A little searching with the GPS, however, and we found a listing for "Bath Park & Ride" at Odd Down, just south of the city. The parking lot was half-empty, the bus just about to leave (four pounds for two return trips!)... so we hopped on the 10-minute ride to Bath.
Amazing! We ate lunch in the courtyard of the Bath Abbey, a very imposing church, before entering the baths themselves. I didn't know how extensive they were! They was the Great Bath, fed by the hot spring directly, East and West baths, a sauna, a cold "plunge pool," changing rooms, and lots and lots of pathways and walkways between. It truly was amazing to see ruins thousands of years old and walk the same paths the ancient Romans walked.
It was late-ish by the time we got back to the Park & Ride, and, not wanting to drive in the dark, we consulted the trusty guidebook and found an interesting town about 10 miles away -Wells, the smallest city in England, featuring an imposing medieval cathedral. One B&B in particular got a good review so we pointed the GPS to the Infield House and set off. The proprietor met us as we were walking in and had a room, which was great.
After checking in we walked into downtown Wells, around not only the cathedral but also the Bishop's Palace and another huge Anglican church (St. Cuthbert's) before deciding we needed a beer. The first place we stumbled upon happened to be a pub, the building built in the year 1549 and used as the jail - complete with bars on the windows as a solitary cell! We ate outside, though, in terrace, not needing the feeling of being in jail while relaxing in southern England.
The definite highlight of the meal was a chicken breast stuffed with ground sausage and herbs, all wrapped in bacon... mmmm...
On that note, I am offiically getting FAT. But loving every minute of it!
Tomorrow we hope to make it through Wales to Snowdonia and spend part of the day Tuesday hiking in the National Park. Mount Snowden is supposed to be lovely. After that we'll head north into Scotland, settling in Edinburgh for the last leg of our trip by Thursday afternoon.
We both really wanted to see the Roman ruins at Bath but my guidebook said that traffic in Bath was awful and it had an "infuriating" one-way road system. The guidebook suggested a nearby Park & Ride service but we weren't sure we'd be able to find it. A little searching with the GPS, however, and we found a listing for "Bath Park & Ride" at Odd Down, just south of the city. The parking lot was half-empty, the bus just about to leave (four pounds for two return trips!)... so we hopped on the 10-minute ride to Bath.
Amazing! We ate lunch in the courtyard of the Bath Abbey, a very imposing church, before entering the baths themselves. I didn't know how extensive they were! They was the Great Bath, fed by the hot spring directly, East and West baths, a sauna, a cold "plunge pool," changing rooms, and lots and lots of pathways and walkways between. It truly was amazing to see ruins thousands of years old and walk the same paths the ancient Romans walked.
It was late-ish by the time we got back to the Park & Ride, and, not wanting to drive in the dark, we consulted the trusty guidebook and found an interesting town about 10 miles away -Wells, the smallest city in England, featuring an imposing medieval cathedral. One B&B in particular got a good review so we pointed the GPS to the Infield House and set off. The proprietor met us as we were walking in and had a room, which was great.
After checking in we walked into downtown Wells, around not only the cathedral but also the Bishop's Palace and another huge Anglican church (St. Cuthbert's) before deciding we needed a beer. The first place we stumbled upon happened to be a pub, the building built in the year 1549 and used as the jail - complete with bars on the windows as a solitary cell! We ate outside, though, in terrace, not needing the feeling of being in jail while relaxing in southern England.
The definite highlight of the meal was a chicken breast stuffed with ground sausage and herbs, all wrapped in bacon... mmmm...
On that note, I am offiically getting FAT. But loving every minute of it!
Tomorrow we hope to make it through Wales to Snowdonia and spend part of the day Tuesday hiking in the National Park. Mount Snowden is supposed to be lovely. After that we'll head north into Scotland, settling in Edinburgh for the last leg of our trip by Thursday afternoon.
Saturday, September 19, 2009
A good last day in London
We had a nice last day in London! Very leisurely. We started out with a run down to Brompton Cemetary and had breakfast at a little cafe on the way home. We wanted to see two museums and hit up a specific Indian place for dinner. Between those activities and visiting with my cousin Neil and his wife Mandy, we didn't have much on the agenda.
The Natural History Museum was gorgeous and interesting. And free! After that, we took the Tube down to King's Cross to visit the British Library which has an amazing collection of manuscripts including ancient copies of illuminated texts of every major religion (Hinduism, Judaism, Christianity, Jainism, Islam, Buddhism, Tao, and probably other's I'm forgetting), original letters from Charles Darwin, Sigmund Freud, and others, original notes and lyrics from the Beatles, original sheet music from major composers, Beethoven's original tuning fork, and even a copy of the Magna Carta.
After that we browsed King's Cross including a couple of bookshops, had lunch at a pub, and headed back to Kensington to meet Neil and Mandy. What nice people! We had a coffee and shared stories of travel and just got to know each other. They gave us lots of advice for our impending road trip.
After resting in the room for a bit we decided to take one last walk around Hyde Park before heading to the Indian place for dinner, which was amazing, despite my spilling a glass of wine. Sigh.
Tomorrow morning we head back to Gatwick airport where we have an (automatic) car rented. Atlas in hand, GPS turned on, we'll head first to Stonehenge and then to Cornwall. No specific itinerary except to be in Edinburgh on Thursday afternoon.
I hope to have some time to blog about every other day, but I'm not sure what our internet access will be like... stay tuned! The adventure is just beginning!
The Natural History Museum was gorgeous and interesting. And free! After that, we took the Tube down to King's Cross to visit the British Library which has an amazing collection of manuscripts including ancient copies of illuminated texts of every major religion (Hinduism, Judaism, Christianity, Jainism, Islam, Buddhism, Tao, and probably other's I'm forgetting), original letters from Charles Darwin, Sigmund Freud, and others, original notes and lyrics from the Beatles, original sheet music from major composers, Beethoven's original tuning fork, and even a copy of the Magna Carta.
After that we browsed King's Cross including a couple of bookshops, had lunch at a pub, and headed back to Kensington to meet Neil and Mandy. What nice people! We had a coffee and shared stories of travel and just got to know each other. They gave us lots of advice for our impending road trip.
After resting in the room for a bit we decided to take one last walk around Hyde Park before heading to the Indian place for dinner, which was amazing, despite my spilling a glass of wine. Sigh.
Tomorrow morning we head back to Gatwick airport where we have an (automatic) car rented. Atlas in hand, GPS turned on, we'll head first to Stonehenge and then to Cornwall. No specific itinerary except to be in Edinburgh on Thursday afternoon.
I hope to have some time to blog about every other day, but I'm not sure what our internet access will be like... stay tuned! The adventure is just beginning!
So much curry...
... oh my god. So much curry. The Indian food here is to die for. We've had it two nights in a row for dinner - last night after a long stroll through St. James' Park, around St. James' Palace and down to Downing St. We hung out along the river until we were starving, at which point we came back to our neighborhood (Earl's Court) and had the most amazing Indian meal right down the street from our hotel. Heads above the curry we had the night before. We have one more Indian place to try tonight (The Owner Eats Here, brags the sign) just for comparative purposes.
We figure, we'll have plenty of time to sample traditional English, Welsh, and Scottish fare while out in the country... might as well take the opportunity to get what is considered to be some of the best Indian food in the world while in London.
We are about to walk down to the Natural History Museum and then catch the Tube up to King's Cross and the British Library, where the Magna Carta is on display. Then we'll catch up with my cousin Neil for a cup of coffee before figuring out what to do with our last night here in London...
We figure, we'll have plenty of time to sample traditional English, Welsh, and Scottish fare while out in the country... might as well take the opportunity to get what is considered to be some of the best Indian food in the world while in London.
We are about to walk down to the Natural History Museum and then catch the Tube up to King's Cross and the British Library, where the Magna Carta is on display. Then we'll catch up with my cousin Neil for a cup of coffee before figuring out what to do with our last night here in London...
Friday, September 18, 2009
It's all who you know!
We were a little early to meet our friend at Scotland Yard yesterday so we took some time to wander around Westminster. We saw Westminster Abbey - unfortunately, photography was prohibited inside! But lots of royalty are buried there, including Mary Queen of Scots, Queen Elizabeth (arch-rivals), and Muzio Clementi, the father of the piano. From there we wandered around to Buckingham Palace and through St. James' Park back to Scotland Yard.
After lunch, which brought some surprising news (in a minute!), we walked down past Big Ben, over Westminster Bridge, and hopped on the London Eye, a huge ferris wheel where you ride in glassed-in capsules providing an amazing panoramic view of the city. Two young pages sweep each capsule for bombs between boarding! Eep!
We had a bit of time before our unbelievable evening plans (patience!) so we walked back to our hotel to change, and, still having time, walked down to Brompton Cemetary which has to be one of the creepiest I've ever seen. Crows caw, the lawn isn't mowed, graves are basically on top of each other, haphazardly arranged.
After a good stroll, we decided to hit the tube down to Tower Hill, where - here it is, drum roll please!! - we would meet up with a friend of our Scotland Yard contact for an event that is NOT open to the public and very few people get to see - the Turning of the Keys at the Tower of London.
The Turning of the Keys is the ceremony that essentially locks the Tower, and, since the Crown Jewels have been housed there for hundreds of years (the Queen has been housed there herself as well during certain reigns) this is a ceremony that is taken very, very seriously, and has changed little if not at all in the past 700 years.
We began at the Tower Entrance where we were given an overview of Tower Hill and it's history. We then moved through the first gate and were oriented with the different towers (there are 20 in all!) and their functions. Some were prisons, some were torture chambers, some were (and are) residences, one holds the Crown Jewels. The guards of the jewels and the tower live inside the walls - kids, pets, everyone, locked in at 10pm nightly and taking various guard posts throughout the day and night.
We stopped into the chapel where not only royalty but the bodies of those beheaded (which, in some cases, were royalty!) are buried and is still a functioning chapel today. Then we moved onto the little pub (which was closed to the public when we went back the next day to actually tour the towers and the jewels) where we had a drink and socialized with the other lucky people for a while until it was time for the ceremony to begin.
The guardsman with the keys walks around and locks each gate, accompanied by an armed Royal escort. Then, at one point, a guard of the tower challenges them, asking who goes there and who's are the keys. The man locking the towers replies that they're the queen's keys and is allowed to pass. The last gate is locked, the jewels are safe, and all is well.
Today we woke up late and booked our car for the road trip which begins Sunday. After that, we headed back down to Tower Hill to take a look around in the daytime. Being there in the bright sunlight with hundreds of other tourists was a MUCH different atmosphere than walking around in the pitch black with 20 other people. And at one point we overheard a tour guide saying, "At night the gates are locked up in a royal ceremony which the public is not allowed to watch." The GENERAL public, maybe ;-)
After the Tower we walked along the Thames and over London Bridge to Burough Market, which is an indescribable menage of booth selling all manner of prepared foods. Of the more exotic we saw Basque charcuterie, ostrich and kangaroo meat, types of cheeses I've never heard of and can't remember, ostrich and duck eggs, skate, scallops in the shell, all manner of sausage and fowl. We got toasted cheese sandwiches and sat on the lawn of the Southwalk Cathedral to eat. And eat we did. After spending a little more than an hour walking around with our mouths hanging open (and sometimes being stuffed with samples), I headed home to nap and my travel companion over to Whitechapel to hunt down some of the sites of the Jack the Ripper murders.
Tomorrow, our last day in London, will be spent at the Natural History Museum, getting together with a cousin of mine on the Irish side who drives a cab here in London, a trip down to the British Library to see the Magna Carta and other delights, and maybe a concert at St. Martin's in the Field.
Then we depart for the countryside!
After lunch, which brought some surprising news (in a minute!), we walked down past Big Ben, over Westminster Bridge, and hopped on the London Eye, a huge ferris wheel where you ride in glassed-in capsules providing an amazing panoramic view of the city. Two young pages sweep each capsule for bombs between boarding! Eep!
We had a bit of time before our unbelievable evening plans (patience!) so we walked back to our hotel to change, and, still having time, walked down to Brompton Cemetary which has to be one of the creepiest I've ever seen. Crows caw, the lawn isn't mowed, graves are basically on top of each other, haphazardly arranged.
After a good stroll, we decided to hit the tube down to Tower Hill, where - here it is, drum roll please!! - we would meet up with a friend of our Scotland Yard contact for an event that is NOT open to the public and very few people get to see - the Turning of the Keys at the Tower of London.
The Turning of the Keys is the ceremony that essentially locks the Tower, and, since the Crown Jewels have been housed there for hundreds of years (the Queen has been housed there herself as well during certain reigns) this is a ceremony that is taken very, very seriously, and has changed little if not at all in the past 700 years.
We began at the Tower Entrance where we were given an overview of Tower Hill and it's history. We then moved through the first gate and were oriented with the different towers (there are 20 in all!) and their functions. Some were prisons, some were torture chambers, some were (and are) residences, one holds the Crown Jewels. The guards of the jewels and the tower live inside the walls - kids, pets, everyone, locked in at 10pm nightly and taking various guard posts throughout the day and night.
We stopped into the chapel where not only royalty but the bodies of those beheaded (which, in some cases, were royalty!) are buried and is still a functioning chapel today. Then we moved onto the little pub (which was closed to the public when we went back the next day to actually tour the towers and the jewels) where we had a drink and socialized with the other lucky people for a while until it was time for the ceremony to begin.
The guardsman with the keys walks around and locks each gate, accompanied by an armed Royal escort. Then, at one point, a guard of the tower challenges them, asking who goes there and who's are the keys. The man locking the towers replies that they're the queen's keys and is allowed to pass. The last gate is locked, the jewels are safe, and all is well.
Today we woke up late and booked our car for the road trip which begins Sunday. After that, we headed back down to Tower Hill to take a look around in the daytime. Being there in the bright sunlight with hundreds of other tourists was a MUCH different atmosphere than walking around in the pitch black with 20 other people. And at one point we overheard a tour guide saying, "At night the gates are locked up in a royal ceremony which the public is not allowed to watch." The GENERAL public, maybe ;-)
After the Tower we walked along the Thames and over London Bridge to Burough Market, which is an indescribable menage of booth selling all manner of prepared foods. Of the more exotic we saw Basque charcuterie, ostrich and kangaroo meat, types of cheeses I've never heard of and can't remember, ostrich and duck eggs, skate, scallops in the shell, all manner of sausage and fowl. We got toasted cheese sandwiches and sat on the lawn of the Southwalk Cathedral to eat. And eat we did. After spending a little more than an hour walking around with our mouths hanging open (and sometimes being stuffed with samples), I headed home to nap and my travel companion over to Whitechapel to hunt down some of the sites of the Jack the Ripper murders.
Tomorrow, our last day in London, will be spent at the Natural History Museum, getting together with a cousin of mine on the Irish side who drives a cab here in London, a trip down to the British Library to see the Magna Carta and other delights, and maybe a concert at St. Martin's in the Field.
Then we depart for the countryside!
Thursday, September 17, 2009
Running in London
Running in London takes a lot of mental effort. The traffic patterns are odd, you have to look the opposite way first before crossing the street, which takes a lot of getting used to. The last thing I'm trying to do is get hit by a car in another country!
Running in London, however, is very rewarding! It was about ten minutes from the hotel to Hyde Park. From there, the route took us past the Prince Albert Memorial, past Kensington Castle, around a gorgeous little pond, and through some gardens. We stopped at an Italian cafe on the way back for pain au chocolat and espressos. At the table next to us were two little English schoolgirls and their mother, having hot chocolate and canolis before school. We are definitely NOT situated in a working-class neighborhood!
We spent yesterday getting acclimated. Took a long walk through Kensington, stopped in Herrod's (a foodie's paradise!!), strolled through Hyde Park, got fish and chips and ale at a pub, and generally walked our poor feet off.
After a snooze we went to Earl's Court for a nightcap - more beer and two amazing snacks: stilton and mustard melted over crostini and a couple of wedges of a lovely Scottish sheep's milk cheese with pickled pearl onions.
One thing I am totally digging is the tea! I stopped at the grocery store and picked up a box of Yorkshire tea, which I knew I loved because my mom had brought some back for me before, and the hotel room has REAL MILK in little tubed, sealed specially to last at room temperature. No Lipton's and cream for me! No sir!
Today we are going to meet one of our friends from Scotland Yard for lunch and head down to the Tower of London/London Bridge/etc area for a while.
I'll try to post something every day but don't yell at me if I'm not perfectly consistent! There's a lot to see and do here besides blog ;-) and once we get on the road we may not have internet access every day. But, do not worry, I will do what I can to keep my dear readers informed!
Running in London, however, is very rewarding! It was about ten minutes from the hotel to Hyde Park. From there, the route took us past the Prince Albert Memorial, past Kensington Castle, around a gorgeous little pond, and through some gardens. We stopped at an Italian cafe on the way back for pain au chocolat and espressos. At the table next to us were two little English schoolgirls and their mother, having hot chocolate and canolis before school. We are definitely NOT situated in a working-class neighborhood!
We spent yesterday getting acclimated. Took a long walk through Kensington, stopped in Herrod's (a foodie's paradise!!), strolled through Hyde Park, got fish and chips and ale at a pub, and generally walked our poor feet off.
After a snooze we went to Earl's Court for a nightcap - more beer and two amazing snacks: stilton and mustard melted over crostini and a couple of wedges of a lovely Scottish sheep's milk cheese with pickled pearl onions.
One thing I am totally digging is the tea! I stopped at the grocery store and picked up a box of Yorkshire tea, which I knew I loved because my mom had brought some back for me before, and the hotel room has REAL MILK in little tubed, sealed specially to last at room temperature. No Lipton's and cream for me! No sir!
Today we are going to meet one of our friends from Scotland Yard for lunch and head down to the Tower of London/London Bridge/etc area for a while.
I'll try to post something every day but don't yell at me if I'm not perfectly consistent! There's a lot to see and do here besides blog ;-) and once we get on the road we may not have internet access every day. But, do not worry, I will do what I can to keep my dear readers informed!
Wednesday, September 16, 2009
Chillin' in the UK
Arrived safely after a long but uneventful trip. Slept like a rock over night. Still tired, but gonna head out for a run down to Hyde Park and back... more later...stay tuned!
Tuesday, September 15, 2009
Heading Across the Pond
I will have a laptop with me in the United Kingdom... so expect blog posts, sporadic as they may be... see everyone from the other side of the Atlantic!
Monday, September 14, 2009
I don't think I can go to the library anymore!
Ugh, I totally screwed up at the library and I don't recover well from faus pax like that. I am so embarassed. I don't know if I can go back. Ack!
I wanted to go today and check out a few books for my trip, but I hadn't been to the Capitol Hill branch of the library yet. I assumed it would run similarly to the Cleveland Park branch that I had been using. Mistake, apparently.
So, I walk in and over to the computers. A few are free. I sit down at one and start to sign in using my library card ID, as the screen says. It doesn't work. I try three times and I can't get it to work. I try to ask the woman sitting next to me but she absolutely does not acknowledge that I've spoken to her. She sort of glanced at me and then straight back at her screen and wouldn't look at me or answer my question!
Just as I'm starting to think that's odd, the librarian comes over and asks me if the computer has been reserved for me. Um, what? Of course it hasn't been reserved for me. I have no idea what she's talking about. She reaches over my shoulder and clicks "CANCEL" and the screen says, "RESERVED FOR AJANNETTE." Um, what? She says, "You have to reserve these computers ahead of time." Meanwhile, Ajannette is standing behind her giving me the sinkeye and I feel totally embarassed.
So I follow the librarian over to the reference desk and I apologized and said that I never had to reserve a computer at the Cleveland Park Branch, I'm new to the neighborhood, I don't know how it works, sorry, sorry, etc and she says, "No. You have to reserve the computers at all branches." Um, what? I have NEVER had to reserve a computer in Cleveland Park! I swear! And no one ever yanked me out of the chair and admonished me! But I kept my mouth shut because by now everyone was staring at the clueless chick who barged in on the reservation line like an idiot.
She asks for my library card and driver's license and asks me if I'm over 18. Um, yes. I'm almost 30 and I have gray hair :) But, I said, I don't need to reserve a computer now because I have lunch plans and just wanted to look up a book quickly but I don't have time anymore.
"It's not lunchtime."
Well for some of us 11:30am IS lunchtime, but okay... I still needed to go... so I told her I didn't need a computer, got my ID card and license and left the library with no books.
I am SO embarrassed! I wish there had been signs on the computers reminding people to reserve them. How are we supposed to know?? Ack, I hate it when I don't understand the rules someplace and make an idiot out of myself. I'll have to wait a few weeks before I go back, and even then, I know I'll be walking on eggshells. :(
I wanted to go today and check out a few books for my trip, but I hadn't been to the Capitol Hill branch of the library yet. I assumed it would run similarly to the Cleveland Park branch that I had been using. Mistake, apparently.
So, I walk in and over to the computers. A few are free. I sit down at one and start to sign in using my library card ID, as the screen says. It doesn't work. I try three times and I can't get it to work. I try to ask the woman sitting next to me but she absolutely does not acknowledge that I've spoken to her. She sort of glanced at me and then straight back at her screen and wouldn't look at me or answer my question!
Just as I'm starting to think that's odd, the librarian comes over and asks me if the computer has been reserved for me. Um, what? Of course it hasn't been reserved for me. I have no idea what she's talking about. She reaches over my shoulder and clicks "CANCEL" and the screen says, "RESERVED FOR AJANNETTE." Um, what? She says, "You have to reserve these computers ahead of time." Meanwhile, Ajannette is standing behind her giving me the sinkeye and I feel totally embarassed.
So I follow the librarian over to the reference desk and I apologized and said that I never had to reserve a computer at the Cleveland Park Branch, I'm new to the neighborhood, I don't know how it works, sorry, sorry, etc and she says, "No. You have to reserve the computers at all branches." Um, what? I have NEVER had to reserve a computer in Cleveland Park! I swear! And no one ever yanked me out of the chair and admonished me! But I kept my mouth shut because by now everyone was staring at the clueless chick who barged in on the reservation line like an idiot.
She asks for my library card and driver's license and asks me if I'm over 18. Um, yes. I'm almost 30 and I have gray hair :) But, I said, I don't need to reserve a computer now because I have lunch plans and just wanted to look up a book quickly but I don't have time anymore.
"It's not lunchtime."
Well for some of us 11:30am IS lunchtime, but okay... I still needed to go... so I told her I didn't need a computer, got my ID card and license and left the library with no books.
I am SO embarrassed! I wish there had been signs on the computers reminding people to reserve them. How are we supposed to know?? Ack, I hate it when I don't understand the rules someplace and make an idiot out of myself. I'll have to wait a few weeks before I go back, and even then, I know I'll be walking on eggshells. :(
Thursday, September 10, 2009
I love fall
Autumn is my favorite season. The crisp, clean breeze. The crunchy leaves. Pumpkin muffins and peppermint hot chocolate (though not at the same time!). I love turning the AC off and sleeping with the windows wide open, covered with lots of blankets (and cats). I love running and wearing makeup that doesn't sweat off. I love soft, ballet-inspired sweaters and early-morning wisps of spooky fog.
I love it all.
I love it all.
Wednesday, September 09, 2009
Cats have so much to teach us
... about self-care!
My cat Natasha always manages to find the coziest spots to rest in. Not like Elena, who is known to curl up in the middle of the floor and snooze. Um, what? Convenient, yes, but not cozy. Not like my Natasha.
Here she is between her scratching post and the little step into the bathroom.
And here she is in ooth of their favorite new spots, lounging in the very wide windowsills..
And just to be fair, here's Elena hanging out in the windowsill, too.
.
Wednesday, September 02, 2009
Life Update
I started running again! I'm such a Type A.. I thought to myself that I would start running again this weekend, it being a long holiday weekend. Fine. But today was so gorgeous that after work I wanted to run. But I told myself, "No, you said you would start this weekend and that's when you start!" What the hell is wrong with me? I am such a rule-follower... especially when the rules are self-imposed! So anyway, I went for a run and no kidding - it was hard! But very satisfying. I'm looking forward to a long fall/winter/spring of running.
I feel very settled in my new home. I've been cooking and the kitchen is feeling more and more natural. I had a package delivered today and my mail has started coming. I know my commute and it's still a pretty easy one (30 minutes to work by bus, 30 home by metro). I'm finding my way around the neighborhood, to the little corner stores and whatnot.
I'm not sure what to read right now, though. I've been shopping my bookshelf and I have a few unread books but right now I want something comfortable. I'm thinking of re-reading the Claudius novels by Robert Graves. I absolutely LOVE them. Maybe I'll start those as well as a new one, so I have something on standby for when I want to read but don't feel like paying attention to a new plotline.
The long weekend is coming, followed by a short week. On the 11th I'll take a train to Connecticut for the weekend to attend my cousin's wedding. I get back on Sunday the 13th and on Tuesday the 15th leave for the United Kingdom for two weeks.
Why should my life slow down?
I feel very settled in my new home. I've been cooking and the kitchen is feeling more and more natural. I had a package delivered today and my mail has started coming. I know my commute and it's still a pretty easy one (30 minutes to work by bus, 30 home by metro). I'm finding my way around the neighborhood, to the little corner stores and whatnot.
I'm not sure what to read right now, though. I've been shopping my bookshelf and I have a few unread books but right now I want something comfortable. I'm thinking of re-reading the Claudius novels by Robert Graves. I absolutely LOVE them. Maybe I'll start those as well as a new one, so I have something on standby for when I want to read but don't feel like paying attention to a new plotline.
The long weekend is coming, followed by a short week. On the 11th I'll take a train to Connecticut for the weekend to attend my cousin's wedding. I get back on Sunday the 13th and on Tuesday the 15th leave for the United Kingdom for two weeks.
Why should my life slow down?
Tuesday, September 01, 2009
This is the weekend!
Yes folks, this is it. This is the weekend when I will resume running. As my faithful readers know, I have taken the hottest summer months off from running to focus on weights. And it's been great! But the weather is getting cool now and I'm itching to get out there. This coming weekend is a long one and now that I'm two blocks off the National Mall I really have no excuse to keep the shoes hung up.
Reports forthcoming...
Reports forthcoming...
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
