We were a little early to meet our friend at Scotland Yard yesterday so we took some time to wander around Westminster. We saw Westminster Abbey - unfortunately, photography was prohibited inside! But lots of royalty are buried there, including Mary Queen of Scots, Queen Elizabeth (arch-rivals), and Muzio Clementi, the father of the piano. From there we wandered around to Buckingham Palace and through St. James' Park back to Scotland Yard.
After lunch, which brought some surprising news (in a minute!), we walked down past Big Ben, over Westminster Bridge, and hopped on the London Eye, a huge ferris wheel where you ride in glassed-in capsules providing an amazing panoramic view of the city. Two young pages sweep each capsule for bombs between boarding! Eep!
We had a bit of time before our unbelievable evening plans (patience!) so we walked back to our hotel to change, and, still having time, walked down to Brompton Cemetary which has to be one of the creepiest I've ever seen. Crows caw, the lawn isn't mowed, graves are basically on top of each other, haphazardly arranged.
After a good stroll, we decided to hit the tube down to Tower Hill, where -
here it is, drum roll please!! - we would meet up with a friend of our Scotland Yard contact for an event that is NOT open to the public and very few people get to see -
the Turning of the Keys at the Tower of London.
The Turning of the Keys is the ceremony that essentially locks the Tower, and, since the Crown Jewels have been housed there for hundreds of years (the Queen has been housed there herself as well during certain reigns) this is a ceremony that is taken very, very seriously, and has changed little if not at all in the past 700 years.
We began at the Tower Entrance where we were given an overview of Tower Hill and it's history. We then moved through the first gate and were oriented with the different towers (there are 20 in all!) and their functions. Some were prisons, some were torture chambers, some were (and are) residences, one holds the Crown Jewels. The guards of the jewels and the tower live inside the walls - kids, pets, everyone, locked in at 10pm nightly and taking various guard posts throughout the day and night.
We stopped into the chapel where not only royalty but the bodies of those beheaded (which, in some cases, were royalty!) are buried and is still a functioning chapel today. Then we moved onto the little pub (which was closed to the public when we went back the next day to actually tour the towers and the jewels) where we had a drink and socialized with the other lucky people for a while until it was time for the ceremony to begin.
The guardsman with the keys walks around and locks each gate, accompanied by an armed Royal escort. Then, at one point, a guard of the tower challenges them, asking who goes there and who's are the keys. The man locking the towers replies that they're the queen's keys and is allowed to pass. The last gate is locked, the jewels are safe, and all is well.
Today we woke up late and booked our car for the road trip which begins Sunday. After that, we headed back down to Tower Hill to take a look around in the daytime. Being there in the bright sunlight with hundreds of other tourists was a MUCH different atmosphere than walking around in the pitch black with 20 other people. And at one point we overheard a tour guide saying, "At night the gates are locked up in a royal ceremony which the public is not allowed to watch." The GENERAL public, maybe ;-)
After the Tower we walked along the Thames and over London Bridge to Burough Market, which is an indescribable menage of booth selling all manner of prepared foods. Of the more exotic we saw Basque charcuterie, ostrich and kangaroo meat, types of cheeses I've never heard of and can't remember, ostrich and duck eggs, skate, scallops in the shell, all manner of sausage and fowl. We got toasted cheese sandwiches and sat on the lawn of the Southwalk Cathedral to eat. And eat we did. After spending a little more than an hour walking around with our mouths hanging open (and sometimes being stuffed with samples), I headed home to nap and my travel companion over to Whitechapel to hunt down some of the sites of the Jack the Ripper murders.
Tomorrow, our last day in London, will be spent at the Natural History Museum, getting together with a cousin of mine on the Irish side who drives a cab here in London, a trip down to the British Library to see the Magna Carta and other delights, and maybe a concert at St. Martin's in the Field.
Then we depart for the countryside!